Australian sleepwear brand Papinelle has teamed up with local biotech startup Uluu to reinvent one of fashion’s smallest yet most overlooked details — the button — as a symbol of environmental innovation.
Papinelle’s new collection, including the Seersucker Gingham Boxer PJ set, features buttons made from seaweed in collaboration with Uluu. Created by fermenting seaweed with saltwater microbes, the material mimics plastic but is fully biodegradable, non-toxic, and microplastic-free.
The result is sleepwear that blends Papinelle’s signature comfort and design with a sustainable substitute for plastic. This marks the first use of Uluu’s material in fashion, which its inventors see as the start of a broader industry shift.
With fashion responsible for around 10 per cent of global carbon emissions — and still reliant on plastic components like hangers, trims, and packaging — the initiative highlights often-overlooked opportunities for change.
Sustainability in the details
For Papinelle founder and co-creative director Renae James, sustainability extends beyond fabrics to every component of a garment.
“Focusing on even these tiny details gives us the chance to make change while staying true to our commitment to design, quality, and comfort,” James told RetailBiz. “This collaboration was about showing that sustainable innovation can show up in many different ways, and that every opportunity to make a difference counts.”
Papinelle and Uluu first connected at a fashion conference, quickly finding common ground in their values.
“That spark grew into a collaboration, combining our design expertise with Uluu’s scientific innovation to create a product that’s both beautiful and environmentally conscious,” James said.
Introducing a new biodegradable material brought unique hurdles, from durability to washability — essential qualities for everyday sleepwear.
“We overcame these hurdles through rigorous testing, iteration, and close collaboration with Uluu’s team,” she said.
“We’re proud to launch a product that meets our high standards with a design feature that’s both fully biodegradable and ocean-positive.”
Turning seaweed into fashion
Uluu co-founder and co-CEO Michael Kingsbury explained how the startup transforms seaweed into biodegradable plastic alternatives.
“Uluu produces tiny pellets that can replace plastic pellets in existing industrial manufacturing equipment. To make these Uluu buttons for Papinelle, we used injection moulding equipment usually used to make objects from plastic,” he said.
The process allows for the creation of products that are both aesthetically pleasing and high-performing, while remaining biodegradable and contributing to ocean restoration.
“Fashion is a great stage to showcase our new materials. It has the potential to spark mass awareness, set trends, and show what’s possible in luxury, design-led products,” Kingsbury said.
He added that Papinelle’s focus on quality, comfort, and sustainability made them an ideal first fashion partner.
Beyond buttons
Uluu’s material is already replacing plastic in accessories and fasteners, but the next step is tackling polyester.
“We’re working closely with Deakin University, who are turning Uluu’s plastic alternative into yarns through a process called ‘melt spinning’, and then knitting them into fabric,” Kingsbury said.
“The aim is textiles that are biodegradable and won’t release microplastics into the environment when they’re washed.”
Uluu is also ensuring sustainability in its supply chain.
“We have a joint venture in Indonesia called SeaSae, which works closely with seaweed cooperatives to source traceable, sustainable seaweed for Uluu’s materials,” Kingsbury explained.
“We also have a partnership with WWF, who are empowering our seaweed farmers in Indonesia to obtain ASC certification for sustainable seaweed.”
With responsible practices, he added, expanding seaweed farming benefits both people and the planet.
A message to the industry
“Sustainability and luxury can absolutely coexist. Even the smallest components, like the humble button, can be reimagined to make a difference,” James said.
“We hope this inspires other brands and consumers to explore how future-forward design and sustainability can go hand in hand.”
“This collaboration proves that natural, sustainable materials can be used without compromising on design or function,” Kingsbury added.
“Partnerships between design and science can help drive this transformation faster.”